ITINERARIES
The Greco-Roman world profoundly shaped western civilization. This history is reflected in the following itineraries which include both Roman ruins as well as paleo-Christian churches and later palaces adorned with classically themed art. Antiquity pervades every corner of Rome and gives us plenty to consider, whether we're exploring the ancient city or contemplating a great work of art.
My itineraries are diverse and attempt to cover areas which are easy to reach while offering visitors new and interesting paths through the city, bringing them into contact with truly extraordinary history.
Both archaeological walks and museum visits move at an appropriate pace and take into consideration prior knowledge, age (children are most welcome!) and individual interests.
**Recently tickets to the COLOSSEUM have become extremely difficult to acquire, particularly at late notice. Seeing it properly from the outside is a great alternative. See Itineraries entitled "MONS CAELIUS" and "FORUM & PALATINUM".
AREAS COVERED IN ITINERARIES:
The Caelian Hill; the Aventine Hill; the Capitoline Hill; the Palatine Hill; the Valley of the Forum; the historical center formally known as "Campus Martius"; the National Museums near Termini station; Trastevere
*Images of excavations of San Clemente and the "Roman houses" unavailable due to photography restrictions.
Duration: 3 - 4 hrs.
Cost: € 255 - € 340 + entry tickets
(San Clemente, € 10pp; Case Romane, € 10pp, closed Tuesdays and Thursdays; Museo della Forma Urbis, € 10pp, closed Mondays)
MONS CAELIUS:
This itinerary focuses on the Caelian Hill, one of the famous 7 hills of the ancient city, which offers a unique view of the Valley of the Colosseum as well as numerous archaeologically important sites.
Beginning with a close-up view of the exterior of the Colosseum and its connection to the rest of the valley, we then head for the hill(s), visiting a couple of paleo-Christian churches along the way. The excavations under San Clemente and the unique plan of Santo Stefano Rotondo are just two reasons to visit these extraordinary places. Afterwards, we visit a Roman house, complete with frescoes, before heading to an open-air museum of various marble architectural remains. Last but far from least, we visit a small, new, spectacular museum dedicated to the Forma Urbis, the enormous marble map of Rome which dates to about 207 AD.
LIST OF MONUMENTS: Ludus Magnus, Colosseum (exterior only), San Clemente, Santo Stefano Rotondo, "Case Romane" (Roman houses), Parco Archeologico del Celio, Museo della Forma Urbis.
MONS AVENTINUS & Environs:
While this itinerary focuses on the Aventine Hill, an area of Rome originally associated with the plebeians of the city, most of what has survived we find in its direct vicinity. In fact, we begin at the foot of the Capitoline Hill, in the location of the first port of Rome on the River Tiber. From here we begin a walk covering monuments essential to the well-being and entertainment of the ancient Romans. A walk through the Circus Maximus and up to the Aventine allows us to imagine the masses cheering on the horse races and even contemplate the legendary moment Romulus and Remus witnessed signs from the birds, determining the founding of the city and its first king. After a peek into the extraordinary basilica of Santa Sabina and a view over the city from within its orange garden, we move on towards the city walls, an Egyptian-style pyramid and even a very famous, and very old, garbage heap!
An optional and highly recommended visit to the nearby Baths of Caracalla rounds out a solid, half-day walk of a lesser seen but equally incredible part of the ancient city of Rome.
LIST OF MONUMENTS: Forum Boarium, Arch of Constantine, Arcus Argentariorum, Circus Maximus, Baths of Caracalla, Aventine Hill (Santa Sabina and Orange Garden), Porta San Paolo, Pyramid of Caius Cestius, Monte Testaccio (view of).
Duration: 3 - 4 hrs.
Cost: € 255 - € 340 + entry ticket (baths of Caracalla, closed Mondays)
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*Walk ends in the Testaccio neighborhood, which is perfect for lunch or aperitivo.
Duration: 2.5 - 3 hrs.
Cost: € 225 + entrance tickets
THE CAPITOLINE MUSEUMS:
The museums on the Capitoline Hill, the location of both the Temple of Jupiter and the Arx Capitolina in antiquity, could never have been anything but incredible. Considered the world's first public museum, this collection of collections includes the bronzes donated by Sixtus IV in 1471 (Lupa Capitolina, Marcus Aurelius, lex de imperio Vespasiani), statuary from the luxurious suburban gardens of the elite, fragments of a colossal statue of Constantine, the ruins of the Temple of Jupiter and so much more. Comprised of 3 separate buildings, visitors pass underground, through the ancient archive of Rome with an incredible view of the Forum, and emerge where they entered, at the gorgeous Piazza del Campidoglio, designed by Michelangelo.
This itinerary includes a walk around the Capitoline hill, which encompasses the museums.
CAMPUS MARTIUS:
A stroll though one of the more famous (and busier) areas of the historic center, in Roman times known as "Campus Martius" or "Field of Mars", allows us to explore a unique and intriguing corner of the ancient city. Medieval, Renaissance and modern architecture envelops and often recycles the earlier Roman buildings, creating a sort of treasure hunt for lovers of antiquity. A number of monuments seen make up part of the great urban project of Augustus and include the remains of a giant sundial, his monumental tomb and an altar dedicated to Peace. The ruins of numerous other temples, a stadium and a theatre represent equally ambitious plans by equally God-like men. All of this and more can be found during a walk of this bustling, monumental city center.
LIST OF MONUMENTS: The Ara Pacis Augustae (small museum), the Column of Marcus Aurelius, the Obelisk of Montecitorio, Temple of Hadrian, Pantheon, Piazza Navona (Stadium of Domitian), Theatrum Pompeium.
Duration: 3 - 4 hrs.
Cost: € 255 - € 340 + entry tickets
*Plenty of cafés can be found along this walk which ends in a good area for lunch or aperitivo.
*The Roman Forum can be admired from the Capitoline Hill (covered during "Capitoline Museums" visit). A unique and impressive view of the ruins of the palace on the Palatine Hill can be seen from the Circus Maximus (covered on the archaeological walk "Mons Aventinus & Environs").
COLOSSEUM, FORUM & PALATINE:
The Roman Forum was the center of the ancient city and the Roman World. Nestled between the famous 7 hills, it holds the ruins of innumerous buildings ranging from temples to triumphal arches, to basilica and fora dedicated to the government and management of a city that once counted a million inhabitants. And then, of course, there's the Colosseum (Flavian Amphitheater), the importance of which goes far beyond the entertainment of the Roman people. Finally, just to the south, we have the Palatine Hill, which gives us the very word for "palace," having been the area of residence first of the aristocracy of Rome, and later the location of the enormous palace of the emperors.
Duration: 3 - 4 hrs. (or more)
Cost: € 270 - € 360 + entry tickets.
Add € 80 for each additional hour.
FORUM & PALATINUM:
(*see practical info below)
This itinerary focuses on the ancient city but omits a visit inside the Colosseum, giving us time to focus on the abundant heritage to be explored in the Forum and on the Palatine. The latter, in particular, gives us a good position from which to discuss both the foundations of ancient Rome as well as its development far into the Empire. From traces of pre-historic huts to the marble of the Imperial Palace, our walk on the hill allows us to acquire perspective before decending into the busy forum, teeming with monuments dedicated to Gods and men (and a woman or two!).
Our tickets allow us entry into the "House of Augustus" (closed Mondays) and the "House of Livia" (closed Tuesdays), two splendidly frescoed villas of two of the most important figures from history, as well as a number of other exceptional museums and monuments.
*The Colosseum can be admired from the Palatine Hill, but a walk around the monument can also be included, time permitting.
Duration: About 3 hrs.
Cost: € 270 + entrance tickets
Add € 80 for each additional hour.
Duration: About 3 hrs.
Cost: € 225 + entrance tickets
(Closed Mondays)
The best of...
The MUSEO NAZIONALE ROMANO
A combined visit to two of the world's most important museums of ancient art adds a bit of life to the bare bones of the ancient city. First off, Palazzo Massimo alle Terme; this museum has it all: masterpieces of Greco-Roman statuary in both marble and bronze, depictions of Romans from all walks of life, stunning mosaics, the oldest Roman calendar in existence, entire frescoed rooms and much more.
Just across the street, the monumental ruins of the largest bath house in ancient Rome, the Baths of Diocletian, offer a wonderful space to admire some incredible antiquities which include an important collection of inscriptions in the ancient languages and an extensive exhibit on the prehistoric peoples of Italy. Particularly noteworthy are the ruins themselves which never fail to impress in their grandeur, as well as the architecture and spaces of the Carthusian monastery which was implanted into the bath house and designed in the Renaissance by none other than Michelangelo himself.
TRANSTIBERIM:
This itinerary touches on two neighborhoods whose character and very existence were determined by the Tiber river. We begin on the left bank, in what eventually became the Jewish Ghetto of Rome; here we can properly admire the splendid Theater of Marcellus, named for the nephew of Augustus, as well as other picturesque ruins before our brief stroll through the Ghetto and its harrowing history.
Next we cross over the lovely Tiberina island, a center for healing since the third century BCE, and where the quarter of Trastevere officially begins.
Trastevere, from the Latin
trans Tiberim,
meaning "beyond the Tiber," was for many centuries considered to be outside the city of Rome. In fact, its very own inhabitants considered themselves to be outsiders and formed a strong sense of identity. Today it is one of the most beloved quarters of the city, by both Romans and tourists. Here we will wander the extremely photographic, narrow streets, stopping at the Basilica dedicated to the patron saint of music, Santa Cecilia, where we visit the underground ruins and admire the fresco of Pietro Cavallini. Afterwards we continue our exploration, making our way to the gorgeous Basilica of Santa Maria, built in the fourth century CE.
Duration: About 2.5 hours
Cost: € 255 + entrance tickets (a small donation to the Basilica of Santa Cecilia)
* The walk ends within Trastevere, known as being a wonderful spot for lunch, dinner or aperitivo!
PRACTICAL INFORMATION:
- Rome is very hot in the summer months (June through mid-September). Visiting cool museums and churches is highly recommended. During periods of extreme heat, I do not visit the archaeological park of the Colosseum (which includes the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill). For all walks booked on days with a forecast of 32° C (90° F) or higher, adjustments to itineraries should be expected. Temperatures always register higher in the ancient city than forecasted, and often reach dangerous levels. Please keep this information in mind when booking visits in the summer months.
- As important and fascinating as it is, I limit my visits to the archaeological park of the Colosseum throughout the year; this is primarily due to overtourism, and all that it brings, as well as my desire to show visitors something more. One might also consider the need to preserve all of the most precious, moveable finds from antiquity in museums.
- All walks and museum visits are private. The prices listed are per couple, family or small group of friends.
- All of my itineraries are best done on foot, mostly by necessity, but also as an effort to help reduce the number of cars in the city center. The museums are handicap accessible but, unfortunately, many of the city streets are not.